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Wednesday, September 24, 2008

Driving in Scotland

Driving in Scotland can be a little tricky for most visitors but once you start you'll find that it's not as bad you thought. Below are our experiences driving in Scotland. They will let you know that you are not alone in the anxiety of attempting this new driving experience but as I said earlier, once you do it you'll find that driving in Scotland is not as bad as you first thought it would be and your anxieties will soon disappear as you drive into the Scottish countryside.

I'm sure that our experiences are typical for most Americans or any foreigner driving for the first time in Britain. The only thing we knew for sure was that we would be driving on the left side of the road and that the steering wheel was on the right side of the car. Needless to say, my husband and I were a little nervous.

On our first trip to Scotland, we arrived in Edinburgh and spent three days and nights walking the streets sightseeing. Our accommodation was a bed and breakfast only one mile from the Royal Mile, so walking everywhere was easy. The night before we were to pick up our rental car, the nerves set in and we did not sleep very much. After breakfast the next morning we called for a cab to take us to the airport where we would pick up our rental car. We filled out the paperwork and were very pleased to find out that we had been upgraded to an automatic due to availability. The clerk then handed my husband the keys and we set off to find the car in the parking lot. Of course, when we located the car we each got in on the wrong side. My husband was to drive and I was to be the "navigator". We just looked at each other, laughed, and quickly changed positions. Once we were settled in our correct places and became somewhat familiar with the car, I was ready to go but my husband was not. He just sat there staring at the steering wheel. In my excitement to be off I had not realized just how nervous he really was. He explained that he just needed a moment to adjust. So, we sat there quietly until he was ready.

Within moments we were pulling out of the Edinburgh Airport parking lot and approached our first, of many, roundabouts. I could hear my husband mumbling "just stay on the left" over and over again as if this was his new "mantra". With my detailed driving directions in my hand, we followed the signs and watched the other drivers for inspiration. We made it out of Edinburgh without a scratch and our nerves intact.

Our destination for the day was Delgatie Castle, Turriff, Aberdeenshire. The drive itself was only a couple of hours so we took our time and enjoyed the scenery. We were awe struck by the heather covered hills dotted with sheep and the small streams flowing along side the road. We made a lot of stops at roadside pull offs just to breath it all in. After only about an hour of driving my husband and I were very relaxed. He admitted that it wasn't so bad after all and after ten days of driving he was a pro.

What really helped were the detailed driving directions I had printed off before leaving home. I used mapquest point A to point B and to our surprise we did not get lost. They were very exact which gave us the confidence needed when we veered off on our own. We also carried with us a Michelin Map of Scotland. Both are must haves for your road trip in Scotland.

FYI - British roads consist of motorways (M roads), through routes (A roads), secondary routes (B roads), and unclassified roads and lanes. The motorways are comparable to U.S. Interstates, A roads resemble our state highways, and B roads are similar to county roads. While we were driving around the countryside in Scotland searching out castle ruins and ancient stone circles, we found ourselves on a lot of single lane roads with tiny passing spots which allow you to pull over (sort of) to allow the approaching car to pass.

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Haunted Castles of Scotland

Scotland's haunted castles are reminders of a very stormy past. For centuries, Scotland was a divided nation with countless conflicts with England and between Highlanders and Lowlanders. Behind the walls of these impressive castles these spirits of the past continue to inhabit an ethereal domain. Old feuds, dastardly deeds, and ancient discords cross the centuries from kinds and queens, lairds and ladies, to Highlanders and Lowlanders. You can experience these haunting's for yourselves, as we did. While staying at Delgatie Castle we experienced some strange things. I'd love to hear about some of your experiences and I invite you to leave a comment about your experiences in ancient Scotland. Below is a short list of some Haunted Castles in Scotland for you to visit. Who knows, you may get lucky and actually experience a haunting yourself.

When touring the south and border region of Scotland you should visit the following haunted castles in this area.

1. Hermitage Castle - Newcastleton, Borders - There is an admission charge. Hermitage Castle broods in desolate isolation amid some of the eeriest countryside imaginable. Creepy corridors and cold stone staircases meander between the moss clad walls of its ruinous interior. Hermitage Castle was built around 1300 on the disputed borderlands between England and Scotland and the castles ownership would switch between these two countries over the next 400 years. The frequent conflicts that swirled around its towering walls led to its being dubbed the "guardhouse to the bloodiest valley in Britain." One of the earliest owners of Hermitage Castle was Sir William Douglas who took it from the an Englishman, Sir Ralph de Neville in 1338. Douglas was very respected in Scotland because of his victories against the English. When the Scottish King David II made Sir Alexander Ramsay sheriff of Teviotdale, the ruthless and envious Douglas lured Ramsay to Hermitage and imprisoned him in a pit or dungeon which was devoid of sanitation and airless. Ramsay was starved to death in this dungeon and his ghostly groans have been heard echoing down the centuries ever since. Another owner was Sir William de Soulis, also known as "bad Lord de Soulis", who owned Hermitage Castle during the reign of Robert the Bruce. There is a legend behind that name which is far more dramatic than historical accounts of his death. Historically he was arrested and executed for plotting the assassination of Bruce. But the legend is that de Soulis was thoroughly evil and practiced the Black Arts. It is said that he kidnapped the children of the neighborhood and used their blood in his sinister rituals. Eventually the locals begged Robert the Bruce to relieve them of their wicked lord. After Bruce said "boil him if you must but let me hear no more of him" which the locals took literally, they stormed the castle, wrapped him in lead, and plunged him headfirst into a boiling cauldron. His ghost now wanders the castle accompanied by sobs of children.

2. Sanquhar Castle - Nr Sanquhar, Dumfries and Galloway- Sanquhar Castle stands in ruin. Sanquhar Castle was built in the 13th century and was once a stronghold for the Crichton family. The chilling aura that descends as you enter is greatly enhanced by the knowledge that a golden-haired "white lady" is sometimes seen gliding around what little remains of the old castle. She is thought to have been a local lass, having set out to visit the castle, vanished without a trace in 1580. Rumor was that she was murdered by one of the Crichton lords. Local gossip always maintained that she was buried somewhere within the castle. Eventually the castle was left to ruin. Then, during excavations in the 19th century, the castle gave up a ghastly secret. Workmen uncovered the skeleton of a woman, lying face down in a pit. The identity of the woman found is not known but local tradition maintains they were the remains of the local lass who had vanished. Many visitors to the castle have felt an icy touch to the back of the neck and , turning around, have seen the fleeting phantom gliding around the ragged remains of her eternal prison.

3. Borthwick Castle - Nr Gorebridge, Midlothian - You can actually stay the night at Borthwick Castle. Borthwick Castle was completed around the end of 1430 and it appears little altered since. Standing between the two towers, you can imagine the terror of prisoners who were given the chance of freedom if they could leap the 12 foot gap with their hands tied behind their backs. In 1567, Mary Queen of Scots and her third husband, the Earl of Bothwell, fled Edinburgh and sought sanctuary within Borthwick's walls as the Scottish lords demanded their blood from outside. Bothwell, who knew that capture would mean certain death, made good his escape. Mary shaved her head and disguised herself as a pageboy. She then climbed through a narrow window that can still be seen in the Great Hall, and lowered herself down by rope to make her break for freedom. They were reunited briefly and on June 15, 1567 he was defeated by the Scottish lords and fled Scotland. Mary fared little better. Soon she crossed the border to England and threw herself on the mercy of her cousin, Elizabeth I. She was imprisoned for 19 years and then was executed in 1587. It is said that her ghost returns to Borthwick Castle, where she appears in the garb of a pageboy.

While touring Fife, Scotland you should visit both of the following haunted castles.

1. Balgonie Castle - Nr Glenrothes, Fife - There is an admission charge and you can only visit on a tour. Balgonie Castle is reportedly Scotland's most haunted castle. It was built in the 14th century and added on to over the centuries until 1702. It fell into ruin over the centuries since but in 1985, Raymond Morris purchased Balgonie Castle. He and his family now live there with the ethereal inhabitants to whom a fortress of such impressive antiquity is, inevitably, home. The laird's son has seen a ghostly old man walking across the courtyard; a head and collar materializing out of a wall in front of him; and a phantom dog and its nebulous owner appearing, then disappearing, into an invisible doorway. One night, the lady of Balgonie, was asleep by the fire in the tower's upper room, when she awoke to find the figure of a man in 17th century attire sitting on the couch opposite her. A few weeks later she came across a portrait of the 1st Earl of Leven and immediately recognized him as the man she had seen. The castle's most famous specter is "green Jeanie", described in 1842 as being a "well known phantom". Nobody knows who she is or what event made her such a permanent fixture in the castle's phantom guest book. The Great Hall has never been remodeled and still retains many of its original features. There are reports of indistinct shapes flitting around its darker recesses, or the often heard sound of disembodied voices engaged in muffled conversation, which send shivers down the spine.

2. Glamis Castle - Nr Forfar, Angus - There is an admission fee. At least six ghosts are known to wander its rooms and halls. The scene of the first haunting is in the crypt. Behind one of the thick stone walls there is a chamber, around which are woven many legends. It was here that one of the Lords of Glamis was once playing cards and he was reluctant to give up the game, even though the Sabbath was rapidly approaching. No sooner had the clock chimed midnight than the devil appeared and asked to the the game. The rash Lord promptly gambled away his soul and died soon after. For years the ghostly sounds of cursing and swearing were heard echoing from the room at night. There are several reports of guests waking to find him leaning over their beds, gazing at them with evil intent. The Castle's chapel is the haunt of the Gray Lady who is thought to be the ghost of Janet Douglas, whife of John, the 6th Lord of Glamis. Her ghost has been seen many times in the chapel, kneeling in silent prayer.

When touring the Northeast of Scotland visit these four haunted castles.

1. Dunnottar Castle - Nr Stonehaven, Aberdeenshire - There is an admission charge. William Wallace dropped by uninvited in 1296 and captured the castle killing 4,000 Englishmen here. The present building dates from the 14th century. A girl aged about 13 years has been seen hovering around the brewery. She wears a plaid-type dress and has the annoying habit of simply melting away in front of startled witnesses. The spectral figure of a "Nordic" man has been seen in the vicinity of the guardroom at the main entrance. There are places where a decided chill hangs in the air, and ghostly voices have been heard chattering in empty rooms.

2. Braemar Castle - Braemar, Aberdeenshire - There is an admission charge. Braemar was built in 1628 by the Earl of Mar and has the presence of a ghostly lady whose ethereal roaming came about as the result of a tragic misunderstanding some 200 years ago. The story goes that a newly married couple arrived to spend their wedding night at the castle. The next morning the husband awoke, crept out of bed, and went out hunting. A little while later his wife awoke to find him gone. The poor girl presumed that he had found their wedding night disappointing and abandoned her. Beside herself with grief and shame, she leaped out of bed, opened the window, and jumped to her death. Her melancholic spirit has remained trapped at the place of her suicide ever since. A Scottish piper appears in the castle's back corridor.

3. Fyvie Castle - Turriff, Aberdeenshire - There is an admission charge. The best known specter is that of the "Green Lady", thought to be Dame Lilias Drummond, wife of Alexander Seton, owner of the castle in the early 17th century. They had five children all of which were daughters and this rankled Seton, who longed for a son. Soon his eye fixed upon one of his wife's relatives, a young woman named Grizel Leslie. She more than welcomed his advances and very soon the two were enjoying a passionate affair. Neglected by her husband Dame Lilias retired to their house in Fife, where she became ill and died shortly after. She was barely cold in her grave before Seton had married Grizel and brought her to live at Fyvie Castle. On their wedding night, they were disturbed by moans and heavy sighs from outside their bedroom window. Seton comforted his terrified wife, assuring her that it was just the wind. But the next morning, on opening the window, he found etched into the solid stone of the outside ledge the name D LILIAS DRUMMOND. The mysterious impression is still there, while Lilias's spirit makes frequent returns to the stairways and corridors of the old castle.

4. Rait Castle - Nr Nairn, Highland - It stands in ruin. The ruins of 13th century Rait Castle are reached by a long and overgrown pathway. It is one of the most frightening places you could ever wish to visit, and an overwhelming sensation of desolate apprehension seems to emanate from its very core. The Duke of Cumberland, or "Butcher Cumberland", stayed here on the night before the Battle of Culloden. Its singularly gruesome haunting is said to have its origins in an infamous event that occurred in 1524, when the warring Cummings held the castle. The then laird invited their arch-enemies, the Mckintoshes, to a banquet at Rait Castle, so that the two clans could make peace. In reality, Cummings intended to massacre them the moment they sat down to dine. His adversaries got wind of his plan, however, and having turned up heavily armed, they managed to kill several Cummings before making good their escape. As his daughter was in love with one of the Mackintoshes, the laird was convinced that it was she who had revealed his plans. Furious at her, he chased the terrified girl to an upstairs room where, having climbed out of a window, she clung to the ledge by her fingertips. Her father hacked of her hands and sent her plummeting to her death. Retribution came swiftly where he and his followers were slaughtered, soon afterward, at Balblair. Ever since the ghost of the laird's daughter has wandered the scene of her descent into eternity. Her handless specter, in a bloodstained dress, is still occasionally glimpsed amid the hollow ruins.

When touring the western Highlands of Scotland and the Isle of Skye visit these haunted castles.

1. Eilean Donan Castle - Nr Kyle of Lochalsh, Highland - There is an admission charge. Eilean Donan Castle was built in 1220 by Alexander II. During the Jacobite uprising, William Mackenzie, garrisoned the castle with Spanish troops. Three English frigates unleashed a bombardment of artillery against the defenders that battered them into submission, and left the castle little more than a moldering ruin. It was rebuilt in 1932 by the MacRae family. The ghost of one of the Spanish troops who died in the bombardment is said to wander the castle, carrying his head under his arm.

2. Duntulm Castle - Nr Uig, Skye - It stands in ruin. Duntulm Castle was once the stronghold of the MacDonald clan. It is a place of mystery and intrigue, where legends abound and ghosts wander. Donald Gorm Mor, Chief of the Macdonalds of Sleat, imprisoned his cousin, Hugh MacDonald, for plotting against him. He incarcerated him in a deep, dank dungeon and fed him salted beef and fish, ensuring that no water was given to him. Hugh was driven to licking droplets of stagnant moisture from the fetid walls, and died a slow, agonizing death, his raging thirst driving him to insanity. Meanwhile, Donald Gorm Mor was left in charge of his father's ward, a one-eyed girl by the name of Margaret. She was hopelessly in love with Hugh and was devastated by the cruelty of his treatment. Mor was so incensed by the pity she had shown Hugh and made her life an utter misery. She was driven from the castle by his vindictiveness and she sought refuge in a convent and died shortly afterward. Her ghost now returns to the castle and can be seen weeping among the ruins, while deep beneath the ground come the clearly discernible parched ravings of Hugh, proving that death did not end his torment.

3. Dunstanffnage Castle - Nr Oban, Argyll, and Bute - There is an admission charge. Dunstanffnage was once a stronghold of the Kings of Dalriada, the original Scots who migrated here from Ireland in the 600's. They brought with them the Stone of Destiny. The present castle was erected in the early 1200's by the MacDougalis, Lords of Lorne. The castle is still the seat of the Campbell Captains of Dunstaffnage, who spend one night each year in the gatehouse as symbolic occupancy. It is also the haunt of a lady in a green dress, said to be a gruadhach, a fairy or spirit woman, whose manifestations are closely knitted to clan fortunes. If she appears smiling, then they can expect good fortune. If she looks sorrowful, or appears to be if she is weeping, the family can expect tragedy.

Monday, September 22, 2008

Driving Tour of Skye and Northwest Highlands of Scotland


Skye is filled with prehistoric monuments. To do Skye justice, we recommend a minimum of two days/three nights on the island. The majestic unpopulated Northwest Highlands of Scotland lure Scots when they want to get away from it all. The scenic beauty of the rugged coastline, mountains, lochs, glens and rivers, provide superb recreation.

The driving tour for Skye and the Northwest Highlands of Scotland is approximately 395 miles.

Begin your journey at Fort William visiting Inverlochy Castle. Take A82 north out of Fort William to Invergarry where you can visit Invergarry Castle. Head west on A87 and then north, and west again on A87 throug Glen shiel. At Shiel Bridge take the small road west to Glenelg to visit the Glenelg Brochs. Back on A87 follow it north to Eilean Donan Castle. Again on A87 follow it to Kyle of Lochalsh and on to the Isle of Skye. Continue your drive along A87 until you come to Sligachan where you'll take A863 to Dunvegan. There you can visit Dunvegan Castle. Head out of Dunvegan taking A850 east to Skeabost where you'll come to a small road B8036 heading north just a very short way and you'll connect to A87 north to A855 at Uig. Follow the A855 to visit the Skye Croft Museum and Duntulm Castle. Continue along A855 where you'll now be heading south and you'll again meet up with A87 at Portree. Continue along the A87 back through Sligachan and to the mainland. Once you reach Auchtertyre turn north onto A890 until you come to the junction of A890 and A896. Here you'll take the A896 and follow it west until you Shieldag and on to Torridon where you'll take the A896 to Kinlochewe. At Kinlochewe take A832 to Gairloch. Continue on A832 passing Poolewe and on up to Laide. Again, continue along A832 until you reach the junction of A835 which you'll follow east. Before you reach Canon Bridge there is a small road heading south which will connet you to A832. Take A832 east then south just past Beauly. At this junction head west towards Kilmorack and A831 to Echless Forest where you can visit Erchless Castle, Beaufort Castle, and Moniak Castle. Continue along the A831 to Cannich where you'll stay on A831 but now you're heading east. Stop off at Corrimony to see Corrimony Cairns. After your visit continue along A831 east until you join A82 at Drumnadrochit and follow this just a little way to visit Urquhart Castle, which is on the west side of Loch Ness. From here you can drive north to Inverness on A82.

Below is a list of sites on the Isle of Skye and Northwest Highlands of Scotland that we have very interesting. Add as many as you want to the above tour as most are within a short drive and really won't add very much to the miles but remember they will add to your time. It can become overwhelming when you try to fit it all in and believe me, you won't be able to do it all in one trip. But that's part of the fun....you just have to keep coming back!

1. Knock Castle - This late medieval castle was a MacDonald fortress called Caisteal Chamuis in Gaelic. To reach the castle we had to follow a path through a pasture strewn with sheep. There is not much left of Knock Castle.
2. Dun Sgathaich Castle - This place is worth visiting if for no other reason than for its beautiful surroundings.
3. Castle Maol
4. Dun Beag - This broch is one of the four or five best preserved in western Scotland, out of about 500 brochs in the country. The broch is off the A863, a half mile to a mile west of Bracadale. The broch is on the north side of the road, the car park is on the south side.
5. St. Columba's Island
6. Urquhart Castle - Pronounced "urk-urt", is one of Scotland's most visited tourist attractions. It stands on a promontory overlooking famed Loch Ness.
7. Strome Castle
8. Beauly Priory
9. The Nigg Stone and Church

A Driving Tour of Scotland's Northeast



So many castles exist in the northeast that local tourist authorities have created a castle trail. However, not only castles dot the region. This ancient Pictish kingdom also boasts numerous carved stones, recumbent stone circles, Roman forts, cathedrals and ruins. It is a land of wild mountains, deep glens, and rushing rivers, treacherous sea cliffs.

This driving tour of Scotland's northeast is approximately 195 miles and will take you from Aberdeen to Inverness.

Begin your journey in Aberdeen where you'll leave the city heading south on A90 to Stonehaven and Dunnottar Castle. Leave Stonehaven by the A957 heading northwest until you reach the A93, from here you can take a short drive to visit both Drum Castle and Crathes Castle. After your visits head west along A93 to B993 continue west. Continue your journey west on B976 until you meet A93 at Crathie. Take A93 west-southwest to Braemar where you'll visit Braemar Castle and if you are there the first weekend in September, visit the Highland Games. Leave Braemar the same way as you came, on A93, heading back to Crathie stopping by Balmoral Castle along the way. Leave Crathie by the B976 until you meet the A939 heading north. At Colnabaichin it's just a short drive west to Corgarff Castle. Leave Colnabaichin on A944 which meets up with A97 where you can visit Glenbuchat Castle, Kildrummy Castle, and continue on north A97 to Huntly. Stay in Huntly a couple of nights so that you can visit Huntly Castle, Loanhead Circle, Tolquhon Castle, Fyvie Castle, and Delgatie Castle. Leave Huntly by way of the A920 heading west to Dufftown. Here you'll want to visit Balvenie Castle and Glenfiddich Distillery. Leave Dufftown on the A941 continuing on to Elgin where you'll want to visit Elgin Cathedral, Spynie Palace, and Duffas Castle. Leave Elgin heading west on A96. Along the way you may wish to visit Sueno's Stone at Forres and Brodie Castle just west of Forres before you reach Nairn. Continue your journey along A96 until you reach Inverness. You'll want to spend a couple of nights here to visit Culloden Battlefield, Clava Cairns, and Cawdor Castle.

The following are other sites, which I may or may not have already mentioned, you may wish to add to your visit while on this driving tour of Scotland's Northeast.

1. Elgin Cathedral
2. Sueno's Stone - My husband and I have seen this stone in many photos, but none of them prepared us for its immensity or for the complexity of the carvings. Sueno's stone stands at the edge of a housing area next to the A96.
3. Duffus Castle - Pronounced "duffus" not "doofus".
4. Spynie Palace
5. Balvenie Castle
6. Huntly Castle
7. Picardy Symbol Stone - Class I Pictish stone may be one of the oldest in Scotland, possibly dating from the 7th century. Take the B992 to Insch. In Insch, follow the minor road toward Largie. The stone stands about two miles beyond Insch on the south side of the road.
8. Maiden Stone - This is a finely carved Class III Pictish stone and may be one of the last of the Pictish carving tradition. The site is located off the A96 4.5 miles northwest of Inverurie.
9. Loanhead Stone Circle
10. Crathes Castle
11. Arbroath Abbey

Since there are so many places to visit within a short distance, we chose self catering as our main accommodation along with Bed and Breakfast/Guest House for the in-between drives for this journey. We chose to stay at Delgatie Castle's Symbister Suite, which is located in Turriff, for one week while we toured part of the northeast region of Scotland. Each morning we would map out our journey for the day, stop off in the town of Turriff for supplies for a picnic lunch, and take off. Although, we were well planned in our journeys we always allowed time for those sites which seem to show up along the way that weren't planned but seemed very interesting. While we enjoy the planning we also love to be spontaneous while on vacation. This allows us to relax, which is what vacations are really all about. Some of our best memories are the ones where we just drove the country roads of Scotland and would come upon a ruined castle. There are so many ruins throughout the countryside of Scotland that most tourists don't even know about or even seem to care to stop by to see. But to us these are some of the best places we visited. There were no people around to disturb the peacefulness of simple, quiet nature. We would park our car as close to the area as possible and hike back to the ruin with our picnic lunch in tow, lay out our blanket and relax amidst the ruins.

Driving Tour of Central Scotland



This driving tour of central Scotland includes the areas Argyll, Perthshire, and Fife. This driving tour is approximately 335 miles long. Argyll is in the western portion of Scotland and has a rich association with the first Scots, called Scotti. Perthshire is convenient to Scotland's central cities. Fife is on the east coast just north of Edinburgh.

Begin this journey from Dumbarton, which is just northwest of Glasgow, on the A82 heading north to Tarbet where you'll turn west (A83). Take the A83 west through Inveraray, now driving south. Continue along the A83 to Lochgilphead where you'll take the A816 north out of Lochgilphead until you reach the B841 at Cairnbaan. Then follow the B841 along the Crinan canal for about 2.5 miles and turn left at the B8025. This road takes you south for about 1.2 miles where a minor road forks to the left leading to Achnamara and the B8025 continues on. To get to Castle Sween, go left at the fork and take the one-lane Achnamara road for about 5 miles. After your visit to Castle Sween go back to B8025 and drive north towards Kilmartin and the A816. From here you could take a short drive south to see Dunadd Castle or you could just continue north where you'll pass Carnassarie Castle. Continue along the A816 until you reach Oban where you'll now take the A85 out of Oban to continue your journey. Stop by Kilchurn Castle just off the A85. Continue along A85 where, just past Ardchyle, you'll turn north on the A827. Follow this to Aberfeldy where you can visit Castle Menzies. Leave Aberfeldy by the A82 until it meets the A822. At this intersection you can make a right on the A822 and drive a short distance towards Crieff to visit Drummond Castle or you can turn left on the A822 to continue your journey to Dunkeld. Leave Dunkeld heading south on A9 to Perth. Just outside of Perth you'll want to visit Huntington Tower Castle, Scone Palace, and Elcho Castle. Leave Perth heading northeast on A94 to Glamis were you can visit Glamis Castle. From Glamis follow the A928 south to A90 and continue south through Dundee where you'll then take A914, A919, A91 to St. Andrews. From here you can head south a short distance to visit Kellie Castle. Leave St. Andrews by B939 until you meet up with A916 where you can turn north to visit Scotstarvit Tower and Hill of Tarvit. Take the A916 to Cupar where you'll leave Cupar heading west until you meet the A92. Here you'll turn south onto A92 and you'll exit onto A912 driving west and stop ere to see Falkland Palace. After your visit continue along A912 until you meet back up with A91. When you reach the M90 take this south to Edinburgh.

The following are places of interest along this drive which you may wish to add to your itinerary.

1. Castle Sween - Castle Sween is the oldest castle still standing in Scotland and may have been the first Norman castle.
2. Kilmartin Church and Linear Cemetery - The linear cemetery or line of burial cairns is the most prominent feature in the valley. The cemetery was used and altered for more than 1,000 years, beginning about 5,000 years ago. The Kilmartin Church is known for its Celtic crosses and its fine medieval grave slabs.
3. Temple Wood - Temple Wood is a famous stone circle frequently cited in arhaeological writings and consists of two stone circles. Be sure to look for the double spirals on one of the northern stones in the main circle.
To see the linear cemetery and Temple Wood, park at the Lady Glassary car park and follow the well-marked paths. They are in the valley of Knapdale along the A816.
4. Dunadd - The fortress of Dundadd, one of Scotland's most important ancient historical sites, stands about 3.5 miles south of Kilmartin. After 500 AD, Dunadd served as the capital of ancient Dalriada. Before that, it had been an Iron Age fort and, before that, a Bronze Age site.
5. Achnabreck Rock Carvings - A virtual prehistoric art gallery, Achnabreck displays Scotland's most extensive group of rock carvings. Achnabreck is well signposted, east of the A816 just north of Lochgilphead near Cairnbaan. The walk to the carving is about one-third mile.
6. Carnasserie Castle - Carnasserie Castle was built between 1565 and 1572. Carnasserie is well preserved despite being captured and partly blown up in 1685. The castle is visible from the road just off the A816 a little more than a mile north of Kilmartin village.
7. Dunstaffnage - Massive Dunstaffnage Castle served as a significant stronghold of the Lords of the Isles at one of the most vital sea-lane junctions of western Scotland. It has associations with Robert the Bruce, the Stone of Destiny, and Flora MacDonald. Driving to Oban on the A85, Dunstaffnage is just off the road to the north on a small peninsula, about four miles east of Oban.
8. Kilchurn Castle - The ruins of Kilchurn Castle loom majestic against a backdrop of mountains and projects a haunting beauty.
9. Dunkeld Cathedral - The town of Dunkeld is just off the A9 heading toward Inverness, about 15 miles north of Perth.
10. Oakbank Crannog - Scotland's lochs contain many crannogs, man made island dwellings approached by various sorts of causeways. The Oakbank Crannog is located at the east end of Loch Tay on the south shore.
11. Elcho Castle - Elcho Castle provides an outstanding example of a nearly intact tower house.
12. Huntingtontower Castle
13. Falkland Palace
14. Aberdour Castle
15. St. Andrews Castle
16. St. Andrews Cathedral
17. Dunfermline Abbey, Palace

Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Driving Tour - Borders Region of Scotland



This driving tour is approximately 308 miles long and covers the southwest and borders region of Scotland, known as abbey country. Most tourists pass right through this region of Scotland on their way to the "real" Scotland known as the Highlands but to me that is a huge mistake. A driving tour of the borders region of Scotland with their gently rolling hills and peaceful villages, touring the many abbeys and castles, adds to the diverse history of Scotland. It's hard to believe that so much violence once took place on this soil. For centuries the borders served as a battleground between England and Scotland.

From Glasgow as our starting point we take the A77 just outside of town heading south toward Stranraer. Just before Stranraer, at Innermessan take the A751, which ten connects to the A75. We are now heading east towards Newton Stewart. About 11 miles east of Stranraer is the village of Glenluce where we found the Glenluce Abbey. Although the abbey lies in ruins, its peaceful setting and nearly intact chapter house make it worth a visit. Rejoin the A75 moving east past Newton Stewart and then south through Creetown keeping our eyes open for Carsluith Castle on our right. Then on to Cairnholy I and II which are located just 6.5 miles southeast of Creetown. Watch carefully for the small sign at the bend in the A75. The one lane road leads north. At a fork take the left track up along a farm road. Shortly we arrived at the top of a hill where a small car park has been created. After visiting we head back to the A75 again moving east where our next stop was Cardoness Castle. Continue following the A75 driving towards Dumfries. Just south of Dumfires is the Sweetheart Abbey which is famous for its red sandstone and its association with love between Lady Devorgilla and John Balliol. Caerlaverock Castle also lies just 7 miles south of Dumfries and is like no other castle I've ever seen. Caerlaverock is more than 400 years old and is the only triangular castle in Britain. We then took the A701 north of Dumfries to Moffat where we then connect to the A708 to see Grey Mare's Tail waterfall, which is just 10 miles north east of Moffat. We continued along the A708 where at Mountbenger we turned north on B709 to visit Traquair House. After our visit we returned to the B709 to connect to A72 heading east to Melrose on the A6091. We visited the Melrose Abbey here which is just 2 miles east of Melrose. The A6091 connects to the A68 towards Dryburgh Abbey which is just off the B6404. We took the A68 just a short way south to Jedburgh where we visited the Jedburgh Abbey. We then followed the A68 back north again but turned east at A698 which took us to Kelso where we visited Kelso Abbey and Floors Castle. Next we took the A699 heading west and connected again with the A68 heading north to Edinburgh.

For all of our tours we use a Michelin Map of Scotland and Mapquest.com prior to leaving the U.S.. Mapquest directions are perfect for point A to point B giving you mileage information and roundabout information. Which is indispensable if you've never experienced one before. We map out our driving tour prior to arriving in Scotland but leave ourselves open to making any changes or additions once we've arrived. You'll sometimes find after speaking with your Bed and Breakfast host/hostess that there is so much more to see that isn't already on your list. We found that these resources helped us tremendously save time and arguments about getting lost so that we could enjoy the scenery and enjoy a picnic lunch along the way. We always pack a picnic lunch for our excursions so that there is no rush. You can find everything you need in any village along the way. The atmosphere of eating a bite on the grounds of an abbey ruin or castle is beyond words. Remember you're there to enjoy yourselves and take time out of your hectic lives, not feel like you have to rush around to get to the next destination. So, enjoy, relax and reconnect with yourself and those you've chosen to take this journey with. Below is a list of places to see in this region. The ruins of Dryburgh, Jedburgh, Kelso and Melrose Abbey lie within 12 miles of each other in green, pastoral countryside, close to the River Tweed. All were founded in the 12th century with three built by King David I.

1. Melrose Abbey
2. Dryburgh Abbey
3. Jedburgh Abbey
4. Kelso Abbey
5. Hawick Motte - pronounced "Hoyk"- is in the town of Hawick on the A7 and is specifically located in Motte Park on a street called Loan to the southeast of Drumlanrig Square. Hawick Motte stands about 24 feet high with a set of stairs leading to the top.
6. Trimontium - In addition to serving as a major command center for the Roman army in Scotland, Trimontium also may have provided rest and relaxation for Roman troops posted in the north. Trimontium proves that the Roman presence in Scotland was far greater than once thought.
7. Smailholm Tower House - pronounced "Smailem" - Smailholm, a tall square stone building not unlike a castle keep, can be seen from quite a distance. A one-lane farm road leads to it. Four story Smailholm soars 57 feet high on an outcrop of rock. It remains in great shape considering how many times it was attacked. Smailholm is located close to Dryburgh on a one-lane road just off the B6404.
8. Greenknowe Tower House - Greenknowe resembles a home with ore windows and bigger windows than does Smailholm Tower House, which appeared harsh looking. Greenknowe was clearly built with security in mind. Greenknowe is not far from Smailholm, about six miles north/northeast. It is located on the A6105, close to junction with the A6089.
9. Traquair - Romantic Traquair has the distinction of being the oldest continuously inhabited house in Scotland. Parts of the house have witnessed action for more than 1,000 years. Traquair is located between Peebles and Galashiels just off the A72 near Innerleithen.
10. Edin's Hall Broch - A visit to Edin's Hall Broch requires extensive and serious hill walking. It is one of the few brochs found in southern Scotland. Directions to Edin's Hall Broch are well signposted from the A6112.
11. Hermitage Castle - Hermitage Castle rises stark and forbidding out of the surrounding pastoral countryside and clearly represents a war machine. The castle is located on a secondary road that heads west from the B6399.
12. Caerlaverock Castle - The only triangular castle in Britain lies seven miles south of Dumfries.
13. Dundrennan Abbey - Dundrennan Abbey, famous for its association with Mary Queen of Scots, is situated in a quiet wooded spot with few tourists. These ruins lie just 3.5 miles southeast from the pleasant artists town of Kirkcudbright (kirk coo'bree) on a minor road off the A711.
14. Cairnholy Chambered Cairns - These are magnificent 5,000 year old burial cairns. Cairnholy I and II are located 6.5 miles southeast of Creetown.
15. Sweetheart Abbey - Sweetheart Abbey is famous for its red sandstone and, as its name suggests, its association with love.
16. Glenluce Abbey
17. Ruthwell Cross - This elaborately carved cross soars more than 15 feet high and may well be one of the most important surviving crosses in Scotland. Drive to the village of Ruthwell off the B724. Just off the B road to the north, a sign points toward the cross's location.